By BRUCE EDWARDS Rutland Herald Staff

The country's oldest cheese plant is back in business.

Crowley Cheese Co. has quietly resumed production of its artisanal cheese at its Healdville factory.

Fallout from the recession forced Crowley to shut down production last year. But with new investors Galen and Jill Jones at the helm, the company has now resumed operation.

Galen Jones is a management consultant with expertise in strategic planning, finance and operations. Jill Jones, a former marketing executive, is taking the lead on ramping up Crowley's sales and marketing efforts.

For the last 15 years, Crowley Cheese has been owned by a group of investors lead by Dick Beahrs. Beahrs and Galen Jones knew each other from their time together at Time Warner. So, when the company was put up for sale last year, the couple purchased a controlling interest in the cheese company, Jill Jones said in a phone interview.

In addition to being cheese lovers, Jones said both she and her husband plan on making the transition from their home in New York to Vermont, where they have a second home in Bennington.

Crowley Cheese has had its financial ups and downs over the years. But Jones said the couple has a plan to put the small cheese maker on a profitable path.

In the past, she said Crowley was managed from a distance. But that has now changed with the new ownership.

Jones said a hands-on management style is required because the profit margins in the artesinal cheese business, which is labor intensive, are "razor thin."

"Our plan is to manage it more carefully and make sure the quality and consistency is always high," Jones said.

She said they plan on capitalizing on Crowley's highly regarded position in the marketplace.

Calley Hastings of the Vermont Cheese Council said having Crowley back in business is important because it occupies such an important place in the state's cheese making history.

Hastings said Crowley is one of several cheesemakers in the state that trace their roots back more than 100 years.

Vermont's reputation for its cheeses continues to attract cheesemakers both from this country and internationally, said Hastings, who makes goat cheese at her Fat Toad Farm in Brookfield.

Crowley's Healdville plant turns out 80,000 pounds of cheese a year. And while Crowley has always been known as a Colby cheese, Jones said that's not quite the case. She said Crowley has little in common with the orange Colby cheese of Wisconsin.

"Frankly, we're getting away from that," she said. "It's sort of like cheddar but doesn't have the bite and it's milder and sweeter."

Because of the aging process required, only medium sharp bars are available. However, according to the company's Web site, medium sharp blocks and 2-1/2 pound wheels are expected to be available by Thanksgiving, with sharp available this winter and extra sharp in the spring.

The couple said they are committed to ensuring the quality and consistency of the cheesemaking operation. The plan is to increase Crowley's visibility and popularity in the artisanal cheese industry by capitalizing on Crowley's well-known name and reputation.

One decision the Halls made is not to reopen the Crowley store on Route 103. Jones said traffic along the road was not sufficient to support the store. She said cheese can be purchased at the Healdville plant, along with other Vermont-made products, or online at www.crowleycheese.com.

Founded in 1824, Crowley is handmade using all-natural ingredients and no automation.

Long-time cheesemaker Ken Hart and assistant cheese maker, Kimberly Farrar, remain with the company.

The Crowley factory is listed on the National Historic Register. It is open most weekdays to visitors who can watch the cheese making process.

bruce.edwards@rutlandherald.com